Selvedge Studio Jacket
Selvedge Studio Jacket
A Case Study in American Craftsmanship (circa 2024).
When we embarked on development of our first jacket for the next Best Made, we turned to Tuscarora Mills in Pennsylvania for a custom fabric. The result: a selvedge undyed twill (denim) woven on 19th-century Draper looms at their Red Lion PA facilities. This fabric combines 55% natural French hemp with 45% organic Texas cotton, making it the most durable, comfortable, and responsible fabric we've ever deployed.
With this fabric as our foundation, we set out to design a consummate "go-to": a versatile piece with layering possibilities, suitable for many occasions that would only get better with wear. Working closely with our most trusted New York City apparel makers, we proudly present the Selvedge Studio Jacket—the evolution of our storied apparel program.
The Selvedge Studio Jacket has three exterior patch pockets and two large interior pockets finished with the selvedge edge of the fabric. Its yoke is lined with a lighter-weight cotton-hemp custom repeat stripe. The jacket is sewn on vintage Union Special flat-felled machines for a durable finish and is secured with three Corozo buttons. The Selvedge Studio Jacket fits to size, and is designed with room to move and layer underneath.
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Its fabric, a specialty selvedge twill-denim, was developed in partnership with Tuscarora Mills in Pennsylvania. Founded in 2020 Tuscarora Mills is on a mission to revitalize textile production in Pennsylvania, utilizing vintage Draper Looms at the historic American Weaving Mills facility in Red Lion, PA. The materials that comprise this jacket’s fabric are a hemp grown in France and spun in Italy, and an organic cotton from the Texas Organic Growers Cooperative, spun in North Carolina. Both yarns are woven into the Best Made Company selvedge twill at Tuscarora Mills in Pennsylvania.
For the manufacturing of our Selvedge Studio Jacket, we commissioned Caroda Inc., a longstanding partner based in New York City's garment district. Founded in the 1980s by Ida and Duncan Law, Caroda uses vintage Union Special flat felled machines to create the signature denim stitch - two rows of stitching on folded fabric edges with a chain stitch inside. This technique ensures both a clean finish and maximum durability. The Selvedge Studio Jackets is finished with three Corozo buttons and a selvedge-edge locker loop.
This jacket's fabric is undyed, woven on 19th-century looms. As a result, it is not as uniform as fabrics made on faster, larger looms, and it has more character, depth, and charm.
The model is 5'11" and 190 lbs and wears a size medium.
-14.3 ounce per square yard weight
-3/1 twill (denim) with a hemp warp
-55% Hemp grown in France and spun in Italy
-45% Organic Cotton grown in Texas and spun in North Carolina
-Undyed
Lining:
-5.2 ounce per square yard weight
-55% Hemp grown in France and spun in Italy
-45% Organic Cotton grown in Texas and spun in North Carolina
-custom 4x4 repeat stripe
Buttons:
- Corozo buttons made from tagua nuts sustainably harvested in Panama from the Corozo palm tree.
How to measure yourself:
1. Neck circumference: Measure around the neck at the base where the collar band of a button-down shirt would sit.
2. Sleeve length: Measure from the center back base of the neck across the shoulder and down the outside of the arm to the wrist. Keep arm relaxed at elbow, arm hanging naturally.
3. Chest: Measure around the fullest part of the chest below the underarm, with arms relaxed at your sides. Keep the tape measure horizontal.
4. Waist: Measure around the smallest part of the waist, keeping the tape measure horizontal.
5. Hip: Stand with feet together comfortably and measure around the fullest point of the hip and seat, keeping the tape measure horizontal.
6. Inseam: Standing up straight and looking forward, have someone help you measure down the inside of the leg from the top point of the crotch to the bottom of the ankle bone.
Now find your correct size:
